Friday Freebie of Awesomeness
You might want to have a fresh pair of undies ready. Just sayin’.
I was conferred my PhD last week (or fortnight, or thereabouts-which, by the way, is not the reason for the above suggestion, although in a perfect world it would be) so I thought I’d post a really awesome Friday Freebie to celebrate. And the Library kindly delivered Practical Dress Design by Mabel D. Erwin. There are so many reasons why this book is awesome (not the least of which is the fact that its copyright of 1954 has not been renewed, thus putting it in the public domain-yayfreeforall! This sort of thing brings to mind images of Scrooge McDuck doing the backstroke in his swimming pool of money-although in my case it would be pattern magazines and books not dollar notes, and lying on a couch reading instead of swimming, but I digress). Other reasons for this book’s abso-fabulousity:
Propah fitting instructions (yea, but every sewing book has those-waaait for it..)
Pattern-less garments, oh my!
Vinta-riffic collars (feeling light-headed yet?)
I’ve never seen dart manipulation principles explained quite like this. Usually diagrams concerning this topic are instructive but boring (you know what it is I speak of, that circular diagram with bodice-front blocks showing dart manipulation via rotation). Also, some fool (actually, more than just the one fool, as evidenced by the various types of markings) went through this book putting ticks and crosses on the diagrams and colouring in (the f*ck?) some of the diagrams (my total lack of super powers means that instead of enjoying travelling back in time and delivering a swift kick to the head of the offender just prior to said act I’ve had to go through the book erasing sh*t like that so if you do come across it (as evinced in image 2 above). I’m pretty sure I’ve removed every single one of those marks (from the pdf version) but if not I’m sorry, it’s been 3 days and I’m really over it XS.
If you’re printing this out, do a couple of pages at a time to check; the thickness of the spine has caused a lot of variation in the margins post-cropping. Unavoidable, because I don’t have one of these yet.
What she considers ‘basic designs’ and by 4 she means 4 million 24 (pass the smelling salts sister)..
And the gratifying, heady feeling of pure validating awesomeness that overwhelms you when you read sentences like:
Modern methods should free one’s time without sacrifice of professional finish. Who wants to spend two hundred laboratory hours making a padded, taped, interfaced tailored suit that looks like $29.50?
Exact-a-f*ckingly sister!
Also, you can now make all the acid-trip styles and silhouettes from the covers of vintage patterns that’d otherwise set you back a couple of Gs online. So what’re you waiting for? Get it!
Want more of this sort of thing? The internet archive has gems like Clothing for Women (1919, pdf, Kindle and other versions) and Complete Home Reference of Sewing and Needlework (which contains Sewing for Everyone by Mary Brook Pickens. 1944 and The Needlework Library, by Elizabeth L. Mathieson, 1949), the latter requires a login but it’s well worth the 3 minutes it takes to register and activate your free account. More recent open source awesomeness that is only tangentially related: Reproductions of model gowns exhibited from 1913 (Model 1 pictured below. Pwaoarrrh I’d wear that. As is.).
Well, I did warn you. In advance and all.
Previously on Friday Freebies. Featured image: Modes Royale pattern D-15 (which you don’t give a sh*t about because now you can make it. I’m being super awesome today so here’s a clue).








Hi Perfect Nose,
Thanks for sharing your Mabel (it’s brill). More importantly: congratulations on your PhD!!
Marianna a.k.a Prominent Derriere
You’re welcome. And thanks!
Well congratulations Dr The Perfect Nose. Thanks for the Friday Freebie, you’ve left me with a hell of lot to digest here but most definitely double thumbs up to ‘Modern methods should free one’s time without sacrifice of professional finish!’
Thanks, and yea.. she’s one awesome lady..
First ups. Congratulations on the PhD! That’s one awesome brain you’ve got!
Secondly. This book is AMAZING! I can’t wait to download it onto my iPad and read and read and read. Love old sewing books. I seriously want to take some of the pages (paticularly the fiting one) and get them printed up and framed in my sewing room/cupboard.
So yep, best get myself to the knicker drawer…
ahahaha don’t say you weren’t warned! And thanks! I haven’t returned the book yet so I can do some high resolution scans and clean ‘em up maybe. See how I go, can’t promise anything because the scanner’s been acting up XS
Heh, I’m happy just to do a sort of montage of them… But at this rate it’ll be every illustration in the book! Loving it!
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Hey….massive congratulations on the PhD. Having just finished my final exams for a Batchelors degree, I am completely in awe.
Thank you, thank you, thank you for this amazing resource. Just flipping fabulous.
You’re welcome. Do use it!
I think i might love you. Mind blown, can not wait to get home & get this downloaded, thank you from the bottom of my nerdy-pattern-drafting-loving-heart
You are most welcome. I can’t wait to see what you do with it, your patterns are already so unique!
um, awesome on you ms PhD ness! and holy freaking shamoly thanks for finding the time to make us a flawless copy of this. do you have eight arms?
Thanks. Just two arms. And fortitude. And patience. Fortience..which sounds better than pattitude which sounds like a pattern hoarding disease..
This is SO FREAKING AWESOME!!! Thank you so much for taking the time to make this available to us; this is a real gem that I’m sure will be loved and appreciated by many of us in the sewing blogiverse
*BIG HUGS*!!!
You’re welcome! I’m so happy that everyone’s loving it, the scanning + cleanup was frustrating but now it’s out there and everyone can learn from it and increase their own drafting (and fitting and sewing) awesomeness!
I just found your blog today and I am overwhelmed with awesome. Unrelated, as someone who is slogging through what is hopefully the last full year of my own PhD in structural biology (love your description of what you do!) -congrats!
Thanks Erin, much appreciated. And best of luck with the final push ahead, it’ll suck for a bit but then you’ll feel awesome and then start having to hide in the airplane toilet when one of the other passengers is having a heart attack/ a baby/ some combo thereof so they don’t accidentally pick you to ‘fix it’ XD
Congratulations on your Ph.D!!! Huge accomplishment!!! Thanks for the freebie
These images are so inspiring! Also congrats Dr. Nose!
Thank you. And I hope you get much use out of them!
Thanks for sharing this!
This is amazing, and you are awesome for sharing it. The section on dart manipulation is blowing my mind!
wow! Thank you! Seriously. It’s Thursday and I can’t wait to get my hands, nose, eyes, and ears into this. I wonder if they have anything regarding lingerie sewing? Hmmm…
Congrats on your new degree! Awesome freebie- I love the inspiration. It’s horrible to hear that people would mark a library book like that but I appreciate all the effort to clean it up!
Hahaha thanks! Yea I just can’t stand to see books messed up. When I get books out of the Library, I erase the marks, straighten the pages, fix the spine etc. It feels awesome to see a messed up book all neat and nice and with the spine usable again XD
Congratulations!!!
Thanks!
Wow, congrats on your PhD! What did you get it in?
Thanks, Functional Genomics/ Plant Fungal Interactions (i.e. how to make money off of fungi that help plants). XD
Congrats on the extra letters after your name! And thanks – that dart manipulation is crazy!
Thank you for pointing these out – just goes to prove good information is ageless. Congrats on the PhD too, thats awesome!!
Your posts are always hilarious and very informative. How do you manage? Gotta check all the links now : )
Those collars. Oh dear lord, those collars! *dies*
No, don’t die yet, there’s pattern drafting to be done!
Also, like, Congrats on your PhD or whatever.
Dr. PN!
Congratulations on your PhD. Should I refer to you as Dr now or does that show my ignorance:) That’s such an awesome achievement.
Now to check out these references. There’s not much in the sewing archives that don’t hold true today. Thank you again.
You’re most welcome! And thanks- Tj’s still good-don’t want the general public to accidentally (and unreasonably) hear Doctor and expect any healing skillz (whatsoever) XD
Just found you thanks to Vicki Kate… wahoooo! Congrats on the PhD. You’ve definitely schooled me.
What an awesome gift – it has already been downloaded and stored in a safe place. I love this kind of stuff. THANK YOU!
You’re welcome!
Thanks for the beautiful diagrams, and congratulations on your PhD.
I love reading your blog, so thanks! and congrats on your degree:)
Thanks for letting me know!
Congrats on the PhD – what an achievement! Came over via Pendle Stitches and this is indeed an awesome post – thanks!
Congratulations on the PhD!!!! Your post are always fun, interesting and informative! Love this one in particular. I’m going to have to start checking out the book section at my local thrift store. Might find some gems like this.
Happy Friday!
Beth
Congratulations Doctor on your degree…that’s a great achievement. Now of course I am curious to know the topic. Thanks for sharing about the book!
Thank you! What a wonderful book.
Awesome! Many congratulations.
Congradulations on your PhD, that is huge! And thanks so much for posting these amazing resources!
I have just downloaded this, and it is AWESOME. Thanks so much for all your work preparing the download.
Woohooooo Dr Perfect Nose it is then. Congratulations congratulations congratulations. Sorry I haven’t commented for so long, though I have stopped by from time to time. Thanks for the amazing amazing freebie. I’ve downloaded it and will be leafing through of an evening for rather a while. Nice.
Ah, serious congrats on the PHD. Mega impressive subject. I wish I knew more about it so I could bore my son with it. Hehe, his eyes glaze over often enough already, most recently when I mentioned the zero point field at the dinner table (not that I really know anything about it, you understand).
Fabulous info in this post, too, thanks!
Thank you so much for this and while I am at it, Congratulations, a PhD is most impresssive!
Fabulous work. Congratulations. I’m sorry I missed this post (it probably came into my email late at night when I was too tired to make much effort; but still, I am sorry). Do we shorten that to Dr Perfect? Or Dr Nose?! (I call my husband Dr B where B = bludgie; understanding that this is a corruption of “budgie” and means a partner who doesn’t work but is kept at home as a pet.)
Congrats, miss! What an achievement! And what a Friday Freebie! Love these diagrams– they’re SO helpful! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you! And you’re welcome! XD You mean the vintage book tho’ yea? The link’s at where it says Get it.. High-res versions of the images are here
Thanks for sharing this — it’s amazing!! Where have you heard about this book, by the way?! You seem to be in the know of all cool sewing books! Most of all, congratulations on your PhD — that’s one major accomplishment!
You’re welcome. I’m a Scientist. I just do the research-and thanks. XD
Hi! You’ve probably moved on from this awesomeness but I just wanted to thank you for having scanned and posted such a great book. I spent the last couple hours reading the darts sections and trying to draft cool things using the instructions, and it has been fun times.
Also, (belated) congratulations on your PhD!
Thanks Meraj-I really appreciate you taking the time to document your adventures! I love hearing from people that have used the resources I make available-do let me know if you post on the patterns you’ve drafted (or the finished garments)and I’ll link them to this post so other users can see the possibilities and be inspired!
I finished sewing a shirt from a few of the techniques in this book (the dart manipulation etc), so I wanted to thank you again for it
. (And show it off; I was pretty excited x).) You can see it here: Purple and Green Jacket
Thanks again!
You’re welcome, Meraj. That’s awesome, I’m so happy that this book was of use to you. Thanks for letting me know.
Thank you ThankYou Thank You! I currently have this book on extended loan from a friend and have been trying to “scan” it with my camera. I have a large collection of vintage sewing books, and this is one of my top five favourites. It has some of the best explanations about how patterns work EVER.
You’re most welcome. I hope you get good use out of it.
Many, many thanks for this!
You just made my day.
You’re most welcome XD
I will have to link to you from now on – just read your article about the sewing bee – you obviously saw what I saw
Awesome! How did I miss this post of brilliance! My Pinterest feed had these pop up tonight – perfect timing, and I recognised the blog – very lovely to meet you! Lets do it again sometime