Friday-Freebie_Buttonholes
Need I say more? Get it here.
Asides: Thank you for all your awesome comments on Flamboyant (Knipmode 2008, Jacket 6b) your feedback is most appreciated. Some really interesting information materialised in the comments concerning metal shank buttons (and making them suck less):
Anita uses the u-shaped part of metal hook & eye sets to sew through the shank and suggested removable buttons with bodkins (grommets?) on the back or a removable button strip (this would be totally doable with an invisible zipper).
Vicki Kate suggested using tuxedo snaps and the like. And then posted some action shots of some of her military buttons using Vogue’s eyelet technique combined with an attachment ring through the back (instead of the mysterious bodkin).
I used the information to do a quick sketch in iDraw on metal-shank-button insertion possibilities. No idea if this diagram makes sense to anyone apart from me (metal shank in bold black, eyelet in red, button back in white, button front in blue).
I also had a conversation with Hannah (“-shank buttons do not go on gracefully”, well said Madame, emphasis mine) at her Tumblog about alternate closures (I’ve been into them ever since I first came across that coat) but I’ve never really made any efforts to track ‘em down because I remembered having those sort of closures on an old school lunchbox and assumed (possibly incorrectly) that they would be easily available (at outdoor/ climbing/ boating equipment stores-i.e. portable winches). Haven’t looked into it but any information on it would be most appreciated.
Update: VickiKate posted some shots of military buttons with attachment rings for easy removability here. Thanks VickiKate!
Previously on Friday Freebies.
Disclaimer: All non-self-generated images remain copyrights of their original owners and are used here for purposes of review and illustration (the two images in this post are my own; the featured image is from the Vogue Sewing Book).
Just another thought… I have a sneaking suspicion (and military types may be able to correct me) that they use split rings to secure buttons. Push the shank through the little eyelet on the coat and then thread onto the split ring. The only reason I suggest this is that I got a load of Royal Navy brass buttons from eBay and they came with a bunch of split rings. I couldn’t work out why the heck they were with the buttons, but temporarily attaching buttons may be the answer as brass buttons wouldn’t like the washing machine! It’d work like the bodkin of rarity (called a cotter pin I think), but without the issue of gravity…
Cool! Do you have a picture of the split rings? What does it look like in action? I.e. with the shank pushed through it.
I’ll see if I can find them…
like a key ring type ring? i could see that working.
Thank you so much for the awesome download!! I’d be really REALLY interested to see some exploration of hardware type closures – I love the idea of adding some industrial touches to a chic design, but I’m still too inexperienced to really figure out practical ways to make it work
Can I suggest going to a disposal store and having a closer look at the buttons on their navy jackets? If there’s one that I find locally, I’ll send you a photo.
Good idea, and thanks that would be awesome!
Thanks for linking me! The diagram totally makes sense, and the droopy button issue is a big source of OCD rage for me. I’m finding that as long as the coat is buttoned, all is well, but when it’s unbuttoned there is still some droop. For this jacket I did manage to minimize it slightly by attaching through all the layers, and then by sewing through the eye about 10 times as tightly as I could get away with. I do have to wonder if there’s some officially easy way I’m not aware of, though. One day, I will master hardware like this girl, I will make it so.
Not my style (too much going on and not convenient for fitting under my riding jacket) but I can see the allure of built up leather/ fur. I really like the draped tunic on that page though, especially the way she’s styled it with a lo-rider belt. The long vest ain’t bad either-great for tall chicks. Agree on stitch tension being the only thing keeping the buttons from drooping at the mo’-which is probably ruinous for good wool XP Someone suggested Key-ring type rings through the back, I reckon one stitch across the ring should help fix the button in place.. Will check see..
I am having this very problem with the metal shank buttons on my coat. CRAPOLA.
XD Sorry to hear that! Have a look at the suggestions in the comments on this and the last post. There’s a couple o’ good ones..
I’m in your camp about shank buttons, metal or plastic. I don’t have a solution, I had to slow down and just work around the shank…feeling really frustrated. I had thought of using a curved needle, which probably would do the trick…next time.
I do love your jacket. I think the big joyful moment was seeing the red wool, yellow buttons and blue white lining, really refreshing and unique. Also love your photos, exploring new techniques? Nice!
hahaha thank you, means a lot coming from you. I was thinking of a circular needle as well-I’m sure my Grandma/ great-Grandma owned something of the sort (but never used it because it was thick and meant for tapestry repair or something of the sort…don’t remember) have a look at the suggestions in the comments though. VickiKate’s idea looks like a regular key-ring to me-should be easy enough to get at a hardware store and if it stops the buttons drooping, worth making eyelets for everyone. Like Hannah said, the buttons that go through multiple layers and then a buttonhole aren’t so much of a problem, for me it’s the ones on the sleeves and the ones that sit on front without going through a buttonhole that droop X(
The bodkin of rarity would appear to be a cotterpin.Available at hardware stores in tons of sizes, might do the trick. And the jacket is amazing. That collar! Fantastic.