Little Non-Black Dress: Part Deux

That awesome feeling of wearing beloved swap fabric.

The fabric is part of a package sent by Modechocolatlast November during the Patterns and Postcards Swap. I searched and searched for the perfect dress to make out of it and was overjoyed when I finally came across this Knipmode pattern.

Knipmode 08/2012 Tunic 10

I love this pattern-the pockets are pure perfection-they’re towards the front (bonus points for not being welted) and shaped like jeans pockets with separate pocket bags (I’m not a fan of side seam pockets-on anything. They move awkwardly and bulk everything up in the most unappealing way, gape increasingly hideously over time and just scream lazy drafting). The rest of the pattern is really well drafted as well-the back skirt piece (highlighted purple on the pattern placement diagram) has a slight bit of curvature to accomodate the buttocks. 

The back fits fine-I was slightly turned at an angle for whatever reason..

I will eliminate that centre back skirt curve when I sew this up next, because I am happily bereft of the curves it is designed to accomodate.

Pattern: Knipmode 08/2012, Tunic 10 (magazine currently on sale here).


Check out the back skirt pattern piece

Bad styling, I know – hands hiding the awesome pockets, incongruous skinny belt lifting the dropped waist back to natural waist height, strange posture adding to the wha? factor. The fatal addition of the panama hat and jeans screams vengeful mum shames introverted progeny at after-school PTA meeting (front page of the school tabloid).

Lucky I only ever go by line diagrams. I think the background is meant to indicate the suitability of this pattern for remnant use/ refashions (or activate sleeper agents trained/ brainwashed during the double-denim drenched mid-80s). I can attest to its awesomeness for the former.

Fabric: Screen printed cotton, skirt portion lined with black rayon (Made in Japan, eff yea) also used for pocket bags.

Modifications: Shortened the front dart by 1.5 cm (should’ve shortened it by 2-2.5 cm) and moved it towares centre front to align at bust point.

Omitted the waist strip, belt carriers and flap pockets.

Shortened the waist by 2 cm and the hem by 1 cm.

Re-calculated the positioning of the remaining button attachment marks (the last button shown in the photo doesn’t actually exist on the pattern-I’m guessing it’s a safety pin+Photoshop special combo).

Used black hammer-on snaps (the size of my thumb increased in direct proportion to the steady incineration of my patience) instead of buttons because the fabric has enough going on as it is.

Black geometric microfibre tights by Gatta. Yellow tights from Gabriella (I don’t recommend the latter because they’re fairly see-through despite being listed as solid). I wore heck out of this throughout the holidays (without tights and with my Ottobre satin shorts underneath).

Disclaimer: All non-self-generated images remain copyright of their original owners and are reproduced here for the purposes of illustration, discussion and review

Epilogue: My apologies to everyone that suffered palpitations as a result of my last post. It was meant to be an entertaining account (and warning) of the hideous misfortune of dealing with bad UX and clueless to non-existant customer service. Unfortunately it reminded a few readers of similar traumatic experiences of their own; I’m sorry for igniting your PTSD!

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39 thoughts on “Little Non-Black Dress: Part Deux

  1. Gah! I *love* this. Can you just arrange to be my own personal seamstress? I know you’re a PhD and everything and this would be a hideous waste of your talents. Perhaps a quick mind meld to absorb your sewing skills and style would suffice…

  2. I love the pockets. I avoid side seam pockets when I can because of the way they add bulk to the part of body I don’t want any bulk added to. But pockets are so darn convenient no matter what. I never thought about substituting a pocket like this. I also am in love with snaps right now. Awesome dress!

  3. Omg I am obsessed with this… I love me a shirt dress. The pockets are super freakin cute, and your fabric is awesome! Are the patterns in the magazine? Or do you have to transfer them yourself?

    • Thanks cjgal, the patterns in Knipmode are the same as Burdastyle, La Mia Boutique, Patrones etc. They are stapled to the centre of the magazine and you detach them and trace them. I use carbon copy paper and an adjustable Clover double tracing wheel (bumpy not spiky) to transfer the pattern with seams and hem included =D

  4. Man this is completely perfect. I love the combination of the pattern and the print. I am a line-drawing lover too (especially with McCalls patterns – who is styling those things? And how the hell did they get the job??).

    This might sound a bit weird, but your hair looks AMAZING! Do you have to get it trimmed often? That cut just suits you down to the ground. I am contemplating a haircut but I’ve been growing mine for about two years now, not sure if I’m brave enough for the chop.

    • Thank you! I used to cut it every 3-4 months when I was doing lab work (because otherwise it would have to be pinned back) but last year I let it grow all year to ponytail length. If you get it cut layered but almost all the same length it will grow out into a bob so you can tuck it behind your ears/ tie it back without too much asymmetry happening.

  5. Amazing! That print is gorgeous, perhaps you ought to choose the fabrics for pattern envelopes, rather than kipmode? Denim on denim on denim – awfulness!

  6. Very nice! So much more appealing than the jeans version. Fabric is very pretty and I love the pockets as well. I am currently working on a pair of pants with side seam front pockets. But there is a technique I found in an issue of Threads where you can attach a front facing ‘stay’ piece to the pockets that attaches around the front and is supposed to allow them to lie flat and stay in place. Does it work? No idea, I have not tried it yet, but will let you know when I finally finish the pants. Here is the article if you are interested: Threads, December/January 2012, Pocket Technique – A Discreet Stay Smooths Your Pants Silhouette. page. 55.

  7. I’ve never sewn a Kipmode pattern. Yet another item on my long list of sewing to-do. But, I love the shirt details on this, although I would lengthen it by about a yard ’cause I’m sure if I showed a glimpse of thigh I’d probably melt. If I could wear a swim burka and not drown I would, but that might be more due to I hate shaving then modesty. That material is great! Have you seen the new stuff from Amy Butler? I’m not even sure who is selling it. Your sleeves look awesome!

  8. I’ve always wanted to ask you: WHERE you buy your tights from?Thanks for sharing the info ^^ The dress is super cute and looks very flattering on you!

  9. Cool dress. I only go by line diagrams too, but I think a photo is more useful than those illustrations you sometimes get on pattern envelopes. I have been fooled by them more times than I care to remember!

  10. Looks great! For some reason I never find the Knipmode designs very appealing, but you always turn them into something awesome!

  11. pretty!looks great w yellow tights
    perhaps you could make it narrower at the bottom edge and add a tuck to the sides so you’ll end up with a tulip shape. or is it balloon?

  12. Love the dress, and the tights, as always :) I ALWAYS go by the line drawings too… soooooo many unfortunate styling & fabric choices out there, it can be quite misleading!! ^_^

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