Geometric: McCall’s 5926

M5926 front view

Panda-eyes from too much over-enthusiastic late night coding.

Yep I sewed up something from one of the big four. Accidents happen. All cool as long as you don’t make a habit out of it. In my defence I cut this out over two years ago and sewed it up a year ago (I don’t like leaving things unfinished and the fabric was a gift from Carl).

The front darts integrate the pockets

Modified French darts integrating pockets. Good reason to use a busy print.

The pattern incorporates the usual baggy/oversized ease bad-drafting/vanity-sizing that is the hallmark of all McCall’s patterns (the envelope says I should cut a size 10-the size I’m wearing is a 6). Happily the front is ruched/gathered so if it’s too big on you just keep gathering it till it fits. Worked for me.

McCalls 5926 back view

Spring looks to be on its way. Which means the light should get a little better in the outfit shots..

I’ve gotten a fair bit of use out of this. I wear my Ottobre silk shorts under it for scootering around (and preventing tights/fabric interactions).

McCalls 5926

Rotating the collar allows you to omit the turtleneck of modesty.

Pattern: McCall’s 5926 (out of print)

Fabric: 100% cotton that Carl brought back from Japan (I don’t think it’s garment-weight but it’s definitely thinner and nicer than quilting weight).

Modifications: If you want to see this made up in all its unmodified glory go check out Leith’s version (post links through to her featured post on the Tessutti blog).

  • Shortened 2 cm at the waist
  • Chopped off 8 cm at the hem (the original pattern is a badly drafted tulip shape that essentially hobbles your stride completely)
  • Rotated the collar piece so the drape is spread out evenly instead of slopping over the front
  • Hemmed with a narrow hem presser foot.

Geometric tights: Ravena by Fiore (not the usual microfibre they’re famous for. Go two sizes up from your usual size-especially if you are tall).

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41 thoughts on “Geometric: McCall’s 5926

  1. Great dress! I like the dramatic neckline and the pleats…and the pockets, of course!
    Great idea to shorten it, I like your version much better than theirs!

  2. I really like the pleats and neckline. Nice color on you. I agree with you on big 4 sizing. So misleading and such a waste of time having to take in their stupid ease! Sorry for the rant!

  3. That is a really cute tunic! At first I thought it might be one of those interesting garments from a Japanese drafting book. The fabric is great! (maybe it was the Japanese fabric that tricked me)

  4. Love it. But a 10?? Gosh, I’m pretty sure that would have fallen off your shoulders!! Oh, and very much liking the new banner. Anything Art Deco inspired is cool with me :)

  5. That is really cute on you! I am not surprised you had to cut a much smaller size, but I am impressed that it looks like new when you blog it after a year of wear!! :D

  6. It’s very flattering on you! Carl definitely has a good eye for fabric! I like that fact that the print is subtle – you should easily match it with many colors, shapes and accessories.
    Shame on big four! I emailed them my feedback/thoughts/rants/ideas a few times but they never answered

    • hahaha thanks! I’ll tell him. Yea I’ve emailed them a rant or two meself-when I first found out about them they had a sale and I joined the club and everything (for the special discount) and they charged me about $46 in postage and sent everything by first class (read unsecure and slow) mail that only cost $6 or so. I got annoyed and demanded they explain the difference. They never responded and I never bought from them again XP

      • Same story about the sale, membership. I approached the situation slightly differently: I sent all patterns to a friend’s address in the US and then, she sent it to Japan. The price was around $9! Well, the world is full of other patterns! Ha!

  7. That is a giant collar. It’s a good thing you are sewing smart and could work your way through this pattern.
    This is such a good style for you.

  8. Hey, I recognise this! You wore this when we ate roast chicken and watched Stuart be awesome on the sewing bee! Anyway, it’s all kinds of awesome! Just goes to show how fabric choice can make or break a pattern, ’cause yours runs rings around the one in the McCall’s photo. I love how your collar is more structured- très stylish :)

  9. i like your styling of the pattern, love the collar. agree about mac. i think its the pits,no one beats vogue.still using my vintages from the time when sizing and vanity did not mix.

    • Thanks Neki-Vogue is the best of a bad bunch. I have heard the vintage versions used to be way better. I prefer burda and Knipmode for their ‘what you see is what you get’ functionality and consistency in fit. Yea it requires tracing but I don’t cut out envelope patterns either so.. eh =)

  10. Your version a big improvement on the envelope! The collar is much nicer and the length an improvement too. I wonder why Big4 do this strange ease/sizing thing? And then, every so often, just when you’ve cut a smaller size than called for, throw in a tight fitting one. Baffling. And off-putting.

    • Cheers. Yea-burda (/European patterns) for all. One day I’ll have my Muller and Sohn books then everything will be awesome. Ofcourse that means I’ll have to draft up fresh blocks but it’ll be worth it for sure.

  11. I agree with Robin, I thought this was some cool “drape drape”-like pattern. It’s really cute.

    The ease, yikes! I now have to check the Big 4′s own pattern descriptions. “Loose-fitting” according to them is at the minimum 5-8″ of ease. If you check the final garment measurements for that one, is that about right? McCall’s ease chart If they’re not going to change any time soon this is another way we can fight them.

    • hahaha my best way of making them fix their ways is by not buying their products at all. Plenty of awesomeness from Ottobre, burda,Knipmode, LMB and Patrones and it’s cool without having to be subject to extreme modification XD

  12. Your version is great and looks really cute on you. But that last picture (the one that isn’t you) – I’d never have looked twice at the pattern based on that pic.

  13. That looks fantastic on you! I’m particularly impressed because I have a drawer of shame- full of unworn ‘sack dresses’ made from big four patterns

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