Friday Freebie: Fundamentals of Patternmaking II

Title:Fundamentals of Patternmaking for Women’s Apparel

Book II: Style Patterns

Author: Esther Kaplan Pivnick

Published: Revised 1958, copyright not renewed i.e. it’s in the public domain now.

Concerned with matters relating to copyright? Please read this thoroughly. Cheers.

It’s been a big week and since Esther is already your bestest friend ever no further introductions are necessary (but if you’re new to this blog check out Book I here) so, on to the meat.

Front bodice bust dart manipulation-the insect antennae version (11) is my favourite

Front bodice waist dart manipulation: yokes and insets. No 15 looks like a face-hugger is about to burst out..

Manipulating the skirt waist into yokes, pleats gathers and insets

Manipulating the skirt body and hem with seam pleats and godets

Back bodice and waist styling

Sleeve cap and body variations-trying to image what sort of insectile appendage 58 and 59 are sporting instead of hands

Sleeve cap and hem variations-71 is so Judge Dredd..

Combination sleeves (great for sci-fi and film noire costumes)

Combination sleeves with gussets, insets and two-pieces. Lovin’ both the versions for 94-great for robot armour

Two versions of 101 were worn by the victim’s wife in The Disappearance of Mr. Davenheim (on the TV version of Agatha Christie’s Poirot mysteries). I meant to take a screen shot but was distracted by the general awesomeness of Poirot et al (Hastings, you loveable imbecile).

112 and 117 are rockin’ my boat. I’d love to try out 114 just for fun though..

Ah the elegance of the raised neckline, 122 would be perfect on a severe suit jacket (worn by Claire Underwood) over a pencil skirt. By the way, 114 and 121 may look the same, but they’re not. 121 is raised a fair bit above the neck (and would look wonderful in heavy drapey silk)

Extra sleeve details and grading

And… bup bara bup bup bup, the pièce de résistance: detailed instructions on drafting the dress from the front cover (henceforth known as the shirt-dress of jaunty princess seams and collar poppage).