Friday Freebie: Fundamentals of Patternmaking II

Title:Fundamentals of Patternmaking for Women’s Apparel

Book II: Style Patterns

Author: Esther Kaplan Pivnick

Published: Revised 1958, copyright not renewed i.e. it’s in the public domain now.

Concerned with matters relating to copyright? Please read this thoroughly. Cheers.

It’s been a big week and since Esther is already your bestest friend ever no further introductions are necessary (but if you’re new to this blog check out Book I here) so, on to the meat.

Table of contents

Bust dart manipulation

Front bodice bust dart manipulation-the insect antennae version (11) is my favourite

Bust and waist dart manipulation, yokes, princess seams, gathers

Front bodice waist dart manipulation: yokes and insets. No 15 looks like a face-hugger is about to burst out..

Yoked, flared and circle skirts, A-line, with waistband and without.

Manipulating the skirt waist into yokes, pleats gathers and insets

Skirts with gores, pleats and godets.

Manipulating the skirt body and hem with seam pleats and godets


Back bodice and waist styling

Sleeve variations

Sleeve cap and body variations-trying to image what sort of insectile appendage 58 and 59 are sporting instead of hands

Sleeve variations

Sleeve cap and hem variations-71 is so Judge Dredd..

More sleeve variations

Combination sleeves (great for sci-fi and film noire costumes)

Kimono sleeves, combination sleeves, underarm gussets

Combination sleeves with gussets, insets and two-pieces. Lovin’ both the versions for 94-great for robot armour

Two versions of 101 were worn by the victim’s wife in The Disappearance of Mr. Davenheim (on the TV version of Agatha Christie’s Poirot mysteries). I meant to take a screen shot but was distracted by the general awesomeness of Poirot et al (Hastings, you loveable imbecile).

Flat, rolled, wrapover and shawl collars

112 and 117 are rockin’ my boat. I’d love to try out 114 just for fun though..

Band collars, raised necklines and cowl necklines

Ah the elegance of the raised neckline, 122 would be perfect on a severe suit jacket (worn by Claire Underwood) over a pencil skirt. By the way, 114 and 121 may look the same, but they’re not. 121 is raised a fair bit above the neck (and would look wonderful in heavy drapey silk)

Two piece sleeves, cuffs, circular ruffled sleeves, front pockets.

Extra sleeve details and grading

And… bup bara bup bup bup, the pièce de résistance: detailed instructions on drafting the dress from the front cover (henceforth known as the shirt-dress of jaunty princess seams and collar poppage).

Draft a vintage shirt-dress with winged collar and princess seamed bodice

Get it.

Previously on Friday Freebies.

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