Reviewed: Bare Essentials Bras
Bare Essentials Bras. Construction and Pattern Drafting for Lingerie Design by Jennifer Lynne Matthews-Fairbanks.
First thoughts: Sweet mother of boob-gasm full-size patterns are included for sizes 30A to 40F (yea you have to photocopy them but that’s still a fuckyea! in my book-gloating and hugging the book, baby). The world is my oyster (no I’m not making an Ariel-kini/ clam-a-kini, yes I just made up those terms-but you know what I mean so it’s all cool) and this book is the shucking tool.
On to the actual review: it’s a slim paperback with a regular spine which means you may have some trouble with it staying open while you work (until you get a bit further in that is). I have an upright book stand so this isn’t a concern for me.
The introduction offers clear and concise coverage (haha) of all the tools and techniques required (including stretch fabric related information such as stitch and needle types. It also goes over fit and the boxes that every well fitting bra should tick (no digging in of shoulder straps, no riding up of back strap etc). The text is accompanied by clear (greyscale) vector diagrams.
The next chapter discusses, in clearly illustrated detail the procedure for constructing a basic bra. The next eight chapters, cover the requirements and construction procedures for the following:
- Bra with multi-seamed cups
- Bra with floating cups
- Non-wired soft bra
- Nursing bra
- Mastectomy bra
- Padded bra
- Front Closure Demi Bra
- Strapless Bra
The pattern drafting sections cover:
- General pattern manipulation, drafting and grading
- Stylizing (it’s a word) a pattern along seam lines or with the slash and spread technique
- Drafting bra bands and cups
- Grading bra bands and cups
- General pattern making directions
The rest of the book is full-sized patterns. Yes. You read right. Proceed to rejoice, now.
Pros: The set of full-sized patterns covering a size range from 30A to 40F alone makes this a must have for any sewing library.
It covers grading.
It covers grading.
It has all the measurement/ sizing charts (and descriptions) in both Imperial and Metric systems (separately)-sizing charts for requirements like underwires are similarly separated. After the monumental cross-system measurement fiasco (grouched about here) that was PinupBra patterns (which I tossed aside in a fit of unholy annoyance, never to touch again) this is a f*cking breath of fresh air. While this is already enough to boost it to Platinum-class in my book, it also covers, step by step, the entire process of constructing the actual bra and covers in detail all of the relevant construction steps for different types of bras in separate chapters.
And if all that isn’t already giving you a sewing-boner here’s something to push you over the edge: any book (by which I mean this one) that mentions supporting your back fat in a way that prevents it from bulging unattractively, definitely has all your shit covered.
These patterns are small enough (well-relatively speaking-high five to ma man Einstein) to practice computer drafting and grading (which I’ve been messing around with on and off for a while now) without massive paper/ neuronal wastage.
Cons: This book has been giving me recurrent, lucid dreams of owning an awesome lingerie label. To get some idea of what I’m referring to (and for awesome inspiration for when you get this book see this).
Laziness, procrastination and a general sweeping malaise during my one free day this week meant I haven’t actually tried drafting anything from this book. That’s life though, not the book. Hopefully I don’t have anything to add to the cons section once I have gotten on with the actual drafting. Time will tell.
Homework: if you’re in Australia, head to booko to find the best pricing online.
Conclusion: Get it. Now. I’ve already ordered the companion version for undies.
Disclaimer: This book feels like it’ll make you a lingerie-making Goddess. This may change once you actually start trying to draft stuff from it. In which case accept defeat and just copy the requisite provided pattern. Sometimes the journey is not the destination.
Epilogue: I’m so close to flying right now I can feel the bugs in my teeth (no wait that’s just from having my helmet visor open on the ride home).
Addendum: Added September 17th, 2010.
- If you’re not into tracing, you can just buy downloadable pdfs of the whole pattern set here.
- There may be a change required to the strap attachment point for the top cup in the patterns provided. The author has detailed the procedure (2 steps, don’t freak out) in this blog post.
Previously on Reviewed: Pattern Making Step by Step, Lucia Mors de Castro.
Sounds amazing! Thanks for the review!
Okay you go first! Either this is going to be uber awesome or phooey.
Ya-next bit of free time I get will be bra drafting time. How hard can be it be (famous words et al… XD).
Thanks for introducing this book! I feel like I wanna fly with you
I’ve just put this on my Amazon wish list. Your post was perfect timing for me as just last night I had a sort out of my underwear drawer and I am in dire need of some new bras. I hate shopping for them so if, with a bit of work, I could end up with a TNT bra pattern, that would be brilliant.
Same, exact thing – NOT into shopping for bras. The last time I was at one of the department stores here the lady tried to sell me a size up based on the “logic” that-it’s padded-no one will know (despite my being specific about not wearing padded stuff and wanting an exact cup fit). I have a very small back and C cup (a combination that doesn’t get stocked here except in the La Perla – range brands and buying off the internet can be extremely hit and miss).
About 20 minutes after writing the above comment the two books went from wish list to bought. I was hesitating because spending over £40 on two sewing books seemed a little too much until a tiny voice in my head reminded me just how expensive underwear can be!
This looks soooo coooooool
Did some research and promptly purchased this book!
From the author’s blog Pattern alteration needed on the bra patterns.
Thanks Anita, I found the blog and website last night but didn’t parse through all of it as it was already past my bedtime.XD I’ve updated the review with both links now!
SOLD.
I’ll admit, with this recent surge in interest for DIY lingerie, I was planning to sit back, relax, and wait for all the early adopters to differentiate the good, the bad, and the ugly.
Exhibit A.
Thanks for the great review. I worked really hard to get all the information out there in as clear a way as possible. I am open to your or any feedback to make this book even more awesome. I have plans to offer a larger range of patterns for both the bra book and the underwear book, but until I have my baby, my attention span is nil, so nothing is getting added until my little bundle of joy is in the world with me. Enjoy the books and the drafting!
You’re welcom Jennifer, it seemed very all encompassing to me (which is good because I’m slowly moving from using commercial patterns to drafting my own). I’ll try drafting the basic pattern soon and let you know if there are any differences between that and the included versions.
Just went ahead and bought that. Bra shopping can get incredibly difficult when you’re not in the range of standard sizing at major retailers.
So true. Hmm maybe I should start a draftalong.. well, I’ll start by drafting the actual bra first XD Just checked out your blog-loving your art and your (sewn) makes.
Thank you for the thorough review. I cannot see myself making bras, my fingers cannot deal with little things, really, but I´ll be watching this space to see what comes from it!
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OMG. Sounds like a must-have. I shall be watching your progress with a worm on my tongue!
This sounds like such an awesome book! Lingerie sewing is a tricksy taskmaster! Anything that attempts to make it a bit more foolproof is gold in my book.
Wow. I’ve never previously considered making bras but that book sounds awesome. Thanks for the review!
making your own lingerie is highly addictive! I’m looking forward to seeing how you get along
Lost and re-found lingerie tutorials.
Thanks!
You review was so timely and helpful. I’ve just spent $60 on a bra and decided that it was the last time – I’m making my own from now on. Book bought and on its way:)
Great, comprehensive review. this just went on the wish list!
Wow thank you for this informative review. Not sure if I am ready to jump into the bra making arena yet, but
I agree bra shopping is pretty miserable!
How freaking cool is that.
Wow! This sounds like a fantastic book. God, I wish I had time to sew 24 hours. But right now, there’s just no time for lingerie. But the time will come! And the book is already bookmarked. Thanks for the review!
Oh wow!! thanks for the brilliant book review, you know what I did after you sent me this link don’t you?
Hahaha the matching undies book is pretty awesome too so if you’re buying it get both and save on shipping.