Friday Freebie: Fundamentals of Patternmaking
Title: Fundamentals of Patternmaking for Women’s Apparel
Book 1~Foundation Patterns
Author: Esther Kaplan Pivnick
Published: 1955, copyright not renewed i.e. it’s in the public domain now.
Concerned with matters relating to copyright? Please read this thoroughly. Cheers.
Aand.. straight to the good stuff:
It’s interesting how older drafting books focus on draping as an alternative block-making technique. This isn’t as common today and is a bit of a pity (Lucia Mors de Castro’s book is a welcome exception).
Taking measurements
I included the image above for two reasons: measurement P which doesn’t turn up in modern-day pattern drafting books (any experts want to chime in on why?) and the fact that the faceless chick is wearing what looks like a modern-day strapless push-up bra.
I’m also a big fan of measurement lines denoted both on the mannequin as well as on the human figure (in so much as the diagram above represents a human figure).
That diagonal measurement again on the corresponding blocks this time - not something I’ve noticed in modern pattern-drafting books. 
Creating a dress block by combining the bodice and skirt blocks and then modifying those for Princess seams. That bit marking grainlines on both pattern pieces should be highlighted in red.. XD 
Achieving the same blocks through simple draping. 
Not so simple draping..
Aaand Grading! (the book also includes grading for sleeves and pant blocks because Esther’s instructions are nothing if not comprehensive in the level of detail provided).
Esther optimised this special pattern drafting system off one taught to her by her father. I did a bit of a search for Mr. Kaplan but all I could up with was this (somewhat related) book (thanks Internet archive)-how sweet are those convex darts? Perhaps Kaplan was not Ms E’s maiden name..
So what’s in Book 2? Necklines, collars, sleeves and styling of all sorts (mainly late forties, early fifties). The pièce de résistance however, is a chapter with instructions for drafting, styling and fitting the dress on the cover.
Oh yea.
Previously on Friday Freebies.
One day, I will sit down and read all the resources that people helpfully post about drafting, and I am kind of in awe of people who talk about it authoritatively. Also, I appreciate how fastidious you are about copyright (I don’t mean that to sound patronising) but it’s one of those issues that people often seem to be scared of or just totally ignore. I work in a Museum and the issue of artwork copyright is always raising its head, so being dilligent and understanding the law so you can work within it, as you do, is so important. Thanks for another great resource!
Hey this is a wonderful resource — thanks! I’ve been thinking about the different ways to combine skirt and bodice bloc to make a dress lately, so that bit is particularly timely and useful for me.
Thank you!!!
Fascinating! I wonder if recent book have dropped draping as a technique because it is so hard (or expensive) to find a mannequin that approximates your body shape.
Thanks for this great freebie!
Those are fabulous diagrams.
Another great find. I love this stuff, thanks for sharing it.
I’m consistently impressed by your abilities to find out of copyright things, it’s pretty amazing. I’m fascinated by their draping methods, I’ve actually used some of these once with the help of youtube videos in an attempt to figure out how Project Runway people were doing it. For whatever reason, I have difficulty following that approach. Thanks for the download, I’m slowly amassing an awesome collection of drafting books.
Now this is a great find. Thank you again for finding this draping/patternmaking gem that’s out of copyright.
I’m starting to dabble in draping and pattern making so I’m so pleased you found this comprehensive reference. Enid has been a good starting point. You’re wonderful TJ:)
You’re welcome. And as always, you’re too kind.
I love draping as apposed to flat pattern making, it makes much more sense to me. So funny about the condoms, very patriotic of you!
geezzz sounds like da book to ‘ave! with all those extra measurements no wonder vintage clothes fit so well.
adding bodices to skirts to make dress patterns is in my current want list.
Thank you again for having found and scanned yet another resource! (Draping, yeah!)
Also, the shoulder slope measurement — I’m no expert, but maybe it’s just one of those measurements that people get really wrong easily, so it’s better to have a “standard” measurement which is usually pretty close. That’s what Leena’s says about their sloper, at least. (Instead of measuring from shoulder to CW, they provide a standard shoulder height measurement based on bust size, which is then used along with bust point, shoulder length, etc, to give you a still somewhat customized shoulder slope.) I guess this could also be the case in your pattern drafting books?
You’re welcome-and yes that is probably the case, I’ve come across a couple of measurements like that (e.g. distance between two bust points for bra-drafting) where the book essentially says ‘you will likely f*ck this up so here’s an average measurement you can use for your size-fix it later if needed in the fitting stage *don’t* measure it yourself!’ XD Cheers for that.
Thanks so much for the info! Looks like a very good resource to have. I think the older pattern making books all have much more attention to detail and mention a lot of sewing techniques that were just considered “normal” for the time, since so many people sewed at home.
Thank you, great resource!
Thank you for this post, It’s so timely for me as I start a patternmaking course this week. I absolutely love your blog, you share so much info and your knowledge and it’s greatly appreciated. I’ve just nominated you for a Liebster Blog Award and you can check it out here if you like.
Thanks Esme much appreciated. Thanks also for the award, but I’ve already received it, post here. Cheers.
This is a little gem, isn’t it?! Thanks for posting about it, you’re also a gem
Bundana x
Thanks this is awesome! Thanks for all the effort to research and scan the book (Where do you find the time??)
You’re most welcome. I do it while reading research papers XD
Bloody hell this is brilliant (very late to the party am I too). Thanks for posting TJ. Firmly bookmarked this resource.